Free crochet blanket calculator
Crochet blanket calculator, from the bed back to the chain
Choose a finished size or type your own, add your gauge, your stitch repeat and how many border rounds you intend, and it works backwards to the foundation chain — a whole number that is also a legal multiple of your repeat — with the row count and the size the result really finishes at. The 11 named sizes run from a 12 inch lovey to a 108 inch king, and the bed ones are shown against the mattress they hang over. Free, no account, nothing to upload.
- 100% free
- No signup
- 11 named sizes
- Repeat-aware chain
- Border taken off first
The blanket you want at the end
Blanket sizes are trade convention, not a standard. Published lists differ by several inches for the same name, and a blanket meant to hang over the sides of a bed is wider than one meant to sit on top. Measure the bed, or the person.
Your hook, your stitch, your repeat
Off your own swatch in the stitch you are about to use.
Far fewer than the stitch figure once you leave single crochet, and that difference is what makes a square chart come out oblong.
Sets the turning chain and refills the length figure below.
1 for plain rows. A shell or a ripple prints its own number.
The stitches outside the repeat: “multiple of 3 plus 2”.
Taken off the target before the body is counted, because a border goes on the outside.
The one assumption behind the length figure at the foot of the result.
Chain 158, then work 99 rows
158 stitches is 2 plus 52 repeats of 3, which is the nearest legal count to the 156.50 your gauge asked for. Add 3 turning chains for Double crochet: chain 161 if the turn does not count as a stitch, 160 if it does. Designers differ on that and the pattern will say which it means.
| Body, before the edging | 48.6 × 56.6 in |
|---|---|
| 3 border rounds add | 1.8 in across, 3.4 in up |
| Finished, off the hook | 50.5 × 60.0 in |
| Distance from the size you asked for | +0.46 in across |
| Stitches in the body altogether | 15,642 |
| Yarn for the body | 1,777 yd · 1,625 m |
The stitch and row counts are exact — they are objects you will make, and the total is their product. The drift above is not an error to fix: a chain is a whole number of stitches and a repeat of 3 moves it in steps of 0.92 in, so most target widths simply are not reachable. Round the target, not the chain.
This figure is an estimate, not a measurement. It assumes 4.09 in of yarn for every one of the 15,642 stitches. Every part of that is editable above, and your own shop’s guidance beats ours — round up rather than down.
Nothing is counted here for the border rounds, the ends you weave in or the swatch you already used, and no skein count is offered — those live on the yarn calculator, which takes this stitch count and adds them. It also derives the per-stitch figure from a blanket you have already finished, which beats the prefilled one by a wide enough margin to be worth the detour before you buy.
Where the eleven named sizes come from
Mattress sizes are standardized in the US and blanket sizes are not, so the useful figure is the drop — how far the blanket hangs past the mattress on each side. That is what separates a bedspread from something that slides off in the night.
| Name | Blanket | Mattress | Drop each side |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lovey / security blanket | 12 × 12 in | — | — |
| Preemie | 18 × 24 in | — | — |
| Baby / receiving | 30 × 36 in | — | — |
| Stroller | 30 × 40 in | — | — |
| Crib | 36 × 54 in | — | — |
| Lapghan | 36 × 48 in | — | — |
| Throw | 50 × 60 in | — | — |
| Twin | 66 × 90 in | 38 × 75 in | 14.0 in |
| Full / double | 80 × 90 in | 54 × 75 in | 13.0 in |
| Queen | 90 × 100 in | 60 × 80 in | 15.0 in |
| King | 108 × 100 in | 76 × 80 in | 16.0 in |
The crib row is here because the size is asked for constantly, not because a crib blanket should be used as one: American Academy of Pediatrics safe-sleep guidance keeps loose blankets out of the sleep space for the whole first year. Made at that size it is a play mat and a pram cover.
How to get from a bed size to a foundation chain
Take these in order: the border changes the body, so sizing it last means sizing it twice.
Pick the finished size, from the list or from a tape measure
The eleven named sizes are split by what they are made for: a lovey, a preemie wrap, a pram cover and a lapghan are sized to a person, while crib through king are sized to a mattress. For the four bed sizes the table underneath shows the drop — 14 inches each side on a twin, 15 on a queen, 16 on a king — which is the figure that decides whether a blanket covers a sleeper or slides onto the floor. If none of the eleven is what you are making, type the measurements in and the named list steps aside.
Swatch in the stitch you will actually use, and count the rows too
Stitches to four inches and rows to four inches are different numbers in crochet and the gap widens with stitch height: single crochet is close to square, while double crochet fits perhaps half as many rows in four inches as it does stitches. Both go in, because the blanket is sized in two directions. Choosing the stitch also sets the turning chain the result quotes and fills in the length figure the yarn line uses.
Give it the repeat and the border, then chain the number it returns
A stitch pattern that works over a multiple of three plus two cannot start on any chain you like, so the raw figure from your gauge is moved to the nearest legal count and the exact unrounded number is printed beside it so you can see which way it went. Border rounds are subtracted from the target first, on the reasoning that a border goes on the outside and a blanket measured to a bed should still fit it afterwards. What comes back is a chain, a row count, the finished size and the distance between that and what you asked for.
Technical specifications
| Named sizes carried | 11, from a 12 in square lovey to a 108 in king, grouped by whether they are sized to a person or to a mattress |
|---|---|
| Drop figures shown for bed sizes | Against US mattresses of 38×75, 54×75, 60×80 and 76×80 in, giving 14, 13, 15 and 16 in of overhang per side for twin, full, queen and king |
| Repeat handling | Any multiple with any number of extra stitches — “multiple of 3 plus 2” — resolved to the nearest legal count, never silently to a round number |
| Border treatment | Rounds are subtracted from the finished target before the body is counted, at two stitch-widths across and two row-heights up per round |
| Turning chains quoted | 1 for single crochet, 2 for half double, 3 for double, with both totals given because designers differ on whether the chain counts as a stitch |
| Width resolution | One repeat. With a repeat of 3 at 13 stitches to 4 in, reachable widths land 0.92 in apart, and the drift from your target is printed rather than absorbed |
| Scope of the yarn line | The body only. No border, ends, swatch or skein count — those belong to the yardage page, and doubling up on them here would double-count the allowance |
| Where the measurements live | In this tab, for as long as it is open. Nothing about your blanket is transmitted or stored |
Frequently asked questions
I counted the chain correctly and the first row still came out short. Why?
Because a chain and the fabric worked into it are two different gauges, and almost nobody chains at the same tension they crochet at. A foundation chain is a row of slip-knots pulled through one another with no stitch holding them open, so it draws in — often enough to lose an inch or more across a blanket even when the count is exactly right. There are three standard fixes and all of them work: chain with a hook one or two sizes larger than the body hook and change back for row one, chain loosely on purpose and accept that it looks untidy until the first row opens it up, or skip the chain entirely and use a foundation single or double crochet, which builds the chain and the first row together at one tension.
How many border rounds should I plan for, and does it matter when?
Three to five rounds of single or half double crochet is the usual range for a blanket, and it matters before you chain rather than after. Each round adds one stitch to each vertical edge and one row to each horizontal edge, so the blanket grows by two stitch-widths across and two row-heights up per round — and because rows are taller than stitches are wide in every crochet stitch above single, a border grows the length faster than the width. This tool takes that off your target before counting the body for exactly that reason. A shell or picot edging is deeper than a plain round, so add its depth to the round count rather than treating it as one.
My blanket is coming out as a trapezoid. What am I doing wrong?
You are gaining or losing a stitch at the turn, and the usual culprit is the turning chain. Whether it counts as a stitch is the designer's choice, not a rule: if the pattern says the chain-3 counts as a double crochet then you skip the first stitch of the row, and if it does not then you work into it — do one and read the other and you drift by one stitch every row in the same direction. The cure is arithmetic rather than skill. Count the row every tenth row against the number this page gave you, and put a marker in the first and last stitch of a row so you can see the edge you are meant to be working into.
Should I chain exactly the number it gives me?
Yes for the stitch count, with two adjustments to make consciously. Add the turning chain for your stitch — one for single crochet, two for half double, three for double — and know whether your pattern counts it as a stitch, because that moves the total by one. Then decide whether you are chaining into the chain or using a foundation stitch, since the second replaces the chain entirely. What you should not do is round the number to something tidier: it has already been moved to the nearest legal multiple of your repeat, and moving it again by hand puts you back where the repeat does not close at the far edge.
What size should a blanket be for a wheelchair or a recliner rather than a bed?
Measure the person sitting, and expect something smaller than you think. A lapghan at 36 by 48 inches is the list entry made for this and it works because it stops above the wheels and above the footplate — a blanket long enough to reach the floor catches in a wheel, and one wide enough to hang past the armrests bunches under the elbows. Take the measurement from waist to ankle for the length and across the knees plus a hand's width each side for the width, then treat that as the finished size including the border. This is the case where the named sizes are worth ignoring entirely: the list is trade convention, and a person is not.
Does this work for a granny square or motif blanket?
Not directly, because a motif blanket is counted in squares rather than in stitches, and the arithmetic moves one layer up. Work out the finished size of one blocked motif including its join, divide your target width by that figure and round to a whole motif, and you have the grid — say a 50 inch throw from 6.5 inch squares is 7 across, giving 45.5 inches plus the border. Then bring one motif's stitch count back here, or to the yardage page, and multiply by the number of motifs. The reason it cannot be automatic is that joining methods consume different amounts: a join-as-you-go adds nothing to the size, while a slip-stitch seam or a joining round adds a measurable strip between every pair of squares.
Is it safe to put a crocheted blanket in a crib?
No, not for a baby under a year old, and the crib row in the size list is there because people ask for the dimensions rather than because the blanket belongs in a crib. American Academy of Pediatrics safe-sleep guidance keeps loose blankets, pillows and soft objects out of the sleep space for the whole first year, and an open crocheted fabric adds a second hazard the guidance does not have to spell out: fingers and toes go through the holes. Made at that size it is a floor mat, a pram cover for a supervised baby, or a keepsake — and a wearable sleep sack is the thing to make if the intention was warmth at night.
About sizing a blanket, and why the chain never lands where you wanted
Blanket sizes are trade convention rather than a standard, and it is worth knowing how loose the convention is before trusting a list. Mattresses are standardized — a US queen is 60 by 80 inches and has been for decades — but the blankets made to cover them are not, and published size lists for the same name differ by several inches. The useful figure is therefore not the blanket dimension but the drop, the distance the blanket hangs past the mattress on each side. A 90 inch queen blanket gives 15 inches of drop and 20 inches of extra length at the foot, which is enough to tuck and not enough to reach the floor. Once you look at the numbers that way the list stops being arbitrary: every entry is a mattress plus a decision about how far over the edge it should hang.
The other half of the problem is that a blanket is built from a chain and a chain is a whole number. At 13 stitches to four inches your gauge will tell you that a 47 inch body wants 152.75 stitches, and you cannot make half a stitch; if the stitch pattern also works over a multiple of three plus two then most whole numbers are illegal as well, and the reachable widths are spaced a whole repeat apart. That spacing is a property of your gauge and your pattern, not an error, and this page prints the distance between what you asked for and what you can have rather than quietly absorbing it. The advice that follows from it is to round the target and not the chain: a blanket an inch wider than the list said is a blanket, while a chain adjusted by hand to a tidier number is a stitch pattern that does not close at the far edge.
Rows are the part that surprises people who came from knitting or from any square grid. Crochet stitches are tall — a double crochet is roughly twice the height of a single — and the row gauge falls accordingly, so a design charted on square cells stretches vertically when it is worked in anything above single crochet. The effect is the same one you see in ASCII art, where the character cell is taller than it is wide and a picture has to be squashed before it is converted or it comes out elongated. If the blanket is going to carry a picture rather than a texture, reduce the image to the stitch grid first with the pixelate tool so you can see what survives at a few dozen stitches across; and once the stitch count is settled, the yardage calculator takes it and adds the border, the ends and the skein count this page deliberately leaves out.
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Where the blanket measurements live
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